Rellenos queen Doña Emi and other cholitas fight to be seen while upholding traditional bites like anise-flavored buñuelos and fiery chola sandwiches.

Rellenos queen Doña Emi and other cholitas fight to be seen while upholding traditional bites like anise-flavored buñuelos and fiery chola sandwiches.

Luz Dary and the women at La Perseverancia food market reinvent classic Colombian dishes such as arepas and ajiaco, reinvigorating local cuisine.

Luz Dary and the women at La Perseverancia food market reinvent classic Colombian dishes such as arepas and ajiaco, reinvigorating local cuisine.

Joyfully diverse yet singular in flavor, Lima's food culture lives for honeyed picarones, savory anticuchos and one chef's Nikkei-inspired ceviche.

Joyfully diverse yet singular in flavor, Lima's food culture lives for honeyed picarones, savory anticuchos and one chef's Nikkei-inspired ceviche.

Toasted tlayudas and vinegary piedrazos embody the rich biodiversity and profound flavors of Oaxaca. Meet Doña Vale, who makes peerless memelas.

Toasted tlayudas and vinegary piedrazos embody the rich biodiversity and profound flavors of Oaxaca. Meet Doña Vale, who makes peerless memelas.

Hearty feijoada. Spicy moqueca. Beachside pirão. Bahia's food is awash with both African and Portuguese influences — and lots and lots of dendê oil.

Hearty feijoada. Spicy moqueca. Beachside pirão. Bahia's food is awash with both African and Portuguese influences — and lots and lots of dendê oil.

Argentines are passionate about street food, be it choripáns or fugazzeta, but Pato Rodriguez's cheesy tortilla has even acclaimed chefs raving.

Argentines are passionate about street food, be it choripáns or fugazzeta, but Pato Rodriguez's cheesy tortilla has even acclaimed chefs raving.